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Our intent is for everyone to have at least a "mid-war" impression that can be used for most reenactments, in any theatre.
While we do not "stitch-count", it is important that your gear and uniform be correct as possible. Please consult with your NCO's or veteran members before making major purchases outside of these guidelines!
It is expected that every member will do their utmost to keep modern paraphernalia out of sight while in our 1860's timeframe. We also hope that members will avoid trendy reenactorisms that are simply inappropriate for our impression.
The Uniform of the 6th. N.C.S.T.
There are a few types of acceptable uniform fabric for our unit. The preferred fabric is a medium gray jean-cloth or a medium gray wool. Some N.C. uniforms were manufactured with "English wool" which has a gray-blue tint, all are correct. All visible stitching on uniforms should be done by hand, and should be of plain white cotton thread or logwood dyed thread. Quilters thread in the right color may also be used. It is important to note that all buttonholes and top stitching should be done by hand. Please note, it is very easy to redo existing buttonholes by hand, and it adds a great deal to your impression!
Our Lt. Mick Hicks can make you a correct Jacket for a fair price! He also makes some other items that are correct for our impression.
He can be reached at 336-992-5274
Jacket:
The N.C. Depot produced three different type jackets, a six button, mid thigh sack coat and a six button Depot jacket(Shell) good for early to mid-war impressions.The third issue N.C. depot jacket is the preferred jacket for our impression as it was worn until the end of the war, the . Richmond Depot Type 2 shell jackets were also issued and are also correct for our impression. This is the type that has the shoulder straps, and belt loops, (though these were often removed by the men) and a 9 button front with no piping. Type 1 RD jackets are acceptable for 1862 and earlier events. Type 3 RD (without the straps and loops) and Peter Tait jackets are also acceptable for mid-late war events. Single breasted frock coats are acceptable for officers and NCO's.
Trousers:
N.C. Depot pattern gray or jean cloth ANV style trousers are preferred. This style has bone or tin buttons with slash or mule-ear pockets. Civilian pattern trousers may be used if of the correct material and construction.
Braces:
(Suspenders)
You WILL need a pair! Cloth or canvas with leather ends where it attaches to the pants buttons. Obviously, no modern suspenders with elastic! *A belt can be used in place of Braces*
Socks:
Heavy knitted wool or woven cotton, not white athletic socks. Avoid modern blends with synthetic fibers.
Shoes:
Jefferson or Federal type Brogan or shoes with leather sole and heels. English low cut shoes are also correct. Heel plates are optional, but recommended. Hob nails are also optional. Infantry privates should avoid tall officer-type boots.
Shirt:
Cotton, flannel, or linen in a military or civilian period pattern. There is scant documentation on Confederate shirt issue, but Federal issue shirts are acceptable (white or grey dommet flannel; Contract issue shirts in blue, tan, or gray), as are British army import shirts. This is an item that can be "sent from home", so civilian types are permitted. It can be a solid color or a period print. If using a plaid fabric, look for woven "Homespun" rather than printed patterns. Shirt buttons should be glass, bone, china, mother of pearl, or pewter types. The buttonholes done by hand.
Hats:
It's been documented that the 6th were issued both McDowell caps as well as kepis which were the standard issue military uniform hat in the ANV. Some Forage caps were also issued. Civilian "slouch" hats became prevalent as the war progressed. All are acceptable for wear. Many period photographs show hats in good condition and not broken down and shapeless. Kepi visors are flat or rolled up. Slouch hats should have a liner. Hardee hats and shapeless hillbilly hats are incorrect for our impression. Try to avoid hat brass and decorations.
Accoutrements:
All Accoutrements should be of black leather or tarred canvas, not buff or brown. Federal issue gear is acceptable for both impressions, but it is preferred that you use documented Confederate issue gear when portraying the 6th N.C.S.T.
Cartridge box and strap:
Suggested pattern is either the CS Depot .58 calibre issue with a lead or brass finial, or the pre-war militia .69 calibre box. Either should be of black leather. Although we prefer you use a cartridge box sling, wearing the box on your belt is acceptable. Leather or canvas slings are ok. British Enfield pattern cartridge boxes are acceptable. "Captured" Federal equipment is also acceptable although you may want to avoid using the box and breast plate. You must have cartridge tins in your box
Belts:
Your accoutrement belt should be of black leather or tarred canvas. White buff leather or cotton web gear is acceptable for pre-war militia or a very early war impression. The buckle issued to the 6th. was custom made in the Central Shops in Burlington for the unit. You may wear a Frame buckle, Forked Tongue buckle, or Roller buckle. British Enfield "snake" belt/buckles, N.C. oval plates, Militia plates, or "captured" US oval belt plates are not acceptable for use.
Cap Box:
CS Depot issue is preferred: black leather single strap cap box, no external stamping, with a lead finial. Stick with the semi-circle shaped front flap, rather than the large "shield" shape flaps. British Enfield pattern and 2-Strap "captured" Federal issue cap boxes are OK.
Bayonet Scabbard:
Should be black leather. CS Depot issue is preferred, these were sewn with one or no rivets, with a lead, pewter, or brass tip. "Captured" Federal scabbards are ok (these are the 2 or 7 rivet style). British Enfield pattern scabbards are acceptable as well. Note that it is a safety requirement that your scabbard have a tip on it.
Haversack:
Generic CS Depot issue (white canvas or cotton) or civilian types are OK. Captured Federal tarred haversacks are also acceptable. There are a number of very good repros available of specific original Confederate haversacks, these are ok too. Make sure you adjust the strap so that it rides high, and does not hang below your hip.
Canteens:
Tin drum and wooden canteens are best. "Captured" Federal smoothside or bullseye canteens are also ok. Leather straps with adjustable buckles were issued until 1862, thereafter white cotton or canvas slings were used. It was common for the soldiers to adjust the sling so that the canteen would not hang too low.
(*note:) Federal issue smoothside or bullseye canteens, should be covered in jean cloth.
Knapsacks:
There are a wide variety available. This is a valuable addition to your impression, and comes in very handy. Some for-go the use of a knapsack and use a blanket roll instead, this is also ok for both impressions. Federal soft double-bag, Enfield hardpack, pre-war single-bag or blanket roll.
Blankets:
Wool N.C. depot issue dark blue with crimson stripes, Gray with black strips, Plain gray, or captured Federal issue blanket. Quilts are also acceptable but keep in mind that modern pattern quilts are incorrect.
Ground cloths, gum blankets and ponchos:
A Confederate soldier may have had a oiled canvas 3' x 6' groundcloth, or possibly one "tarred" on one side. These are extremely easy and inexpensive to make with a little research. Captured Federal "rubber coated" gum blankets are acceptable as well. You may wish to consider a poncho instead of the gum blanket, as they can be worn in wet weather while still serving the same role.
Buckles, Buttons, Hat Pins, etc.
Hat brass:
Avoid this like the plague (i.e., less is more...). The CS generally did not issue infantry hunting horns or company letters/numbers for hats. Also, please no animal parts or other oddball items.
Buttons:
N.C. state seal buttons, N.C. sunburst or the various "I" types are good. Federal eagle buttons, brass or pewter flower buttons, and wooden buttons are also correct on a confederate uniform. Avoid "CSA" buttons; these should be used for very late war events only.
Various pins and emblems:
Although these lend a bit of individuality, these should be avoided. Masonic, Irish, etc. emblems are pretty much a reenactorism. Although there are a few original examples of these, most common use was in the Union army.
Firearms:
In order to participate in battles with us, we require a "3 band" musket. This is a re-enacting standard for safety reasons alone. Other weapons may be used as appropriate in living history situations or as determined by the Company Commander. The weapon WILL be inspected and MUST be in a CLEAN and SAFE CONDITION before use. Military personnel are expected to clean and maintain their weapons as if their lives really depended on it. (They do, an unclean firearm is an unsafe firearm, even shooting blanks!)
*It is STRONGLY recommended that you use a seperate barrel on your weapon for if you plan on firing live rounds off the field! Modern bullets have a tendency to break off at the skirt and leave lead pieces in the breech, a definite safety hazard for other reenactors down range!
There are many reproduction musket-rifles available, we suggest you not ruin an original by bringing it out. Acceptable types include: the various .58 calibre model P53 Enfield Rifle-Muskets, the various .58 calibre Springfield rifle-muskets, the .58 calibre "Richmond" rifle-musket, the M1842 .69 calibre smoothbore musket, and the various flintlock-to-percussion conversions. When contemplating a first-time purchase, please consult a "veteran" before spending the big bucks.
Pistols are not allowed on the field except for officers, so be aware of that before you buy one.
You will need a bayonet that fits and SAFELY LOCKS onto your musket, be advised that they almost always need a bit of custom fitting (a.k.a. "filing") to fit properly when new.
Other items:
Wristwatchs and modern eyeglasses must not be worn while in uniform. Correct style period eyewear and pocket watchs are easily available and inexpensive. Note that many inexpensive pocketwatchs are sold with an incorrect chain; discard these and use a piece of hemp twine or leather until you can get a correct pocketwatch chain.
Side knives:
Many soldiers went to war in '61-'62 with a big bowie knife. Most of these were tossed very quickly in favor of a pocket knife. Most of the sideknives sold by sutlers are very incorrect, so make this one of your last purchases if you want one and make sure you get one that looks correct. Avoid the "made in Pakistan" look.....
Tents:
We usually set up a garrison camp with A-frame Wedge tents or shelter halves, but military members are strongly encouraged to be able to do a campaign impression. For a Confederate this means sleeping in the open on the ground, or at best using a small piece of canvas for an improvised fly (this is very cheap and easy to make!). Captured Federal issue shelter-halves (dog tents) are acceptable, but you should do a bit of research before buying or making your own, so that it is correct.
Cups and utensils:
Tin cups and plates are the norm! Do not buy stainless steel as it is incorrect! The same goes for speckle-ware; it is anachronistic for the time period. Avoid any cast iron items as these would be awfully difficult to carry on the march...if you need a frying pan, consider a thin stamped steel one. A canteen half can serve as both a pan and plate with some modification. Utensils should have a bone or wooden handle, originals are very cheap and look much better than repros.
Camp boxes:
A good wooden box with a lid to carry excess gear is a great asset in a garrison camp, and is preferable to modern trunks, cardboard boxes, foot lockers etc. You don't have to have one, but they do come in very handy.
Lanterns:
Consider using your bayonet, or carve your own candle holder out of wood. If you must use a lantern, please use a wooden or tin candle lantern. Railroad type oil lanterns are correct but were scarce in the field or on the march but were used in Garrison camp. |